Skin Through The Ages
From your 20s to your 50s, and beyond, our experts ultimately share how to look after your skin.
We have to start by saying that nobody’s skin is the same, and while we should steer clear of skin stereotypes, we have one thing in common: the beautiful and natural ageing process. As early as our 20s, we can experience textural shifts, fine lines and pigmentation concerns. Try to avoid harsh treatments to change this natural process or fall for products promising youthful, ageless skin – it’s all marketing jargon! Instead, study your skin, treat your skin with kindness and introduce healthy practices, treatments and products.
THE SCIENTIFIC CHANGES
As we age, extrinsic factors, like lifestyle and sun exposure, as well as intrinsic factors, like the natural slowing of cell renewal and turnover, causes the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin) to thin and years of skin damage, often appearing as pigmented spots or discolouration, to appear and not shift so quickly. You can typically expect a reduction in the strength and elasticity of the skin, the blood vessels within the dermis become more fragile, our sebaceous glands produce less oil, and we progressively lose the protective fat layer in the skin’s dermal layer. It sounds a lot, we know, but it’s all part of the skin maturing and it is nothing to fear.
As we said, no complexion is the same. While your skin concern should take precedence with a tailored treatment plan and expertise, being aware of what is happening at a deeper level is also essential in keeping your skin in its best possible condition at any age or stage of life.
YOUR 20’S
“This is the time to future-proof your skin by adopting a skincare strategy that prevents premature ageing.”
— Dr. Saira, Skin & Sanctuary
Common concerns in your 20’s include:
Continued teenage acne
Large pores
Uneven skin tone
Hyperpigmentation
Dr Saira Vasdev, Black Skin Directory Practitioner and Founder of Skin & Sanctuary, shares that “our 20’s are when the ageing process starts to kick in with a loss of collagen (the secret to bouncy, plump skin) of 1% per year from age 21.”
By your late 20’s, you may even see fine lines and wrinkles appearing around the eyes, along with an uneven skin tone. This is the time to future-proof your skin by adopting a skincare strategy that prevents premature ageing. Vitamin C and SPF will protect and preserve your existing collagen, keeping your skin healthy and resilient. A liquid exfoliant containing AHAs and/or BHAs will boost surface radiance through skin refining and keeping pores clear. Low dose retinol is recommended from your mid 20’s, starting very gradually to build tolerance and to minimise irritation.
See our recommended at-home skincare products below.
Ideal in-clinic treatments can include:
HydraFacials: Combining dermabrasion with dermal infusion to nourish and hydrate the skin whilst tackling imbalances.
LED therapy: A valuable tool to heal and repair stressed-out skin and regulate oil and acne-causing bacteria.
Skin Peels or Microneedling: For skin with acne scarring or hyperpigmentation.
SHOP SKINCARE FOR YOUR 20'S
(left to right)
ALLIES OF SKIN 20% VITAMIN C BRIGHTEN AND FIRM SERUM
Try a high-strength Vitamin C like the one from Allies of Skin. 20% Concentration means it helps tackle stubborn dark marks while brightening the skin.
VICHY LIFTACTIV 15% PURE VITAMIN C SKIN BRIGHTENING CORRECTOR SERUM
Built with a budget in mind, Vichy’s Liftactiv 15% Pure Vitamin C Skin Brightening Corrector Serum is also combined with hyaluronic acid for essential hydration and vitamin E to moisturise skin.
PAULA’S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA LIQUID EXFOLIANT
A beauty favourite for a reason, this liquid exfoliant will help to remove dead skin cells to help improve texture, dullness and pigmentation concerns.
MEDIK8 INTELLIGENT RETINOL 3TR
A nighttime treat, retinol helps to restore and renew your skin. Gently introduce it into your routine to avoid irritation and sensitivity – a slow build to daily use is key.
YOUR 30’S & 40’S
Common concerns in your 30’s and 40’s include:
Collagen loss, the fundamental building block for supporting skin’s plumpness, softness and strength.
Ageing factors such as fine lines, sunspots and deeper pigmentation.
Internal Glycation. This happens when sugar binds to collagen in the skin, making it hard and brittle, causing collagen to break prematurely. Yes, society can claim ‘black don’t crack’, but it can with visible lines and wrinkles in this case.
It is helpful to start collagen-stimulating treatments to reduce the ageing process. Effective clinic options include micro-needling and injectable skin boosters such as Profhilo and Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP), which improve skin quality. Dermal fillers are also fantastic for keeping wrinkles and sagging tissues at bay.
Build on your skincare routine from your 20’s with some at-home collagen solutions. Try these plumping wonders:
SHOP SKINCARE FOR YOUR 30'S & 40'S
(left to right)
VIDA GLOW NATURAL MARINE COLLAGEN SACHETS
A powder sachet that you can add to your drinks, smoothies or swallowed whole, marine collagen helps to boost skin’s elasticity to prevent fine lines and helps to brighten the complexion. Take one a day. Also available in Blueberry, Pineapple, Peach and Mango flavours.
ELIZABETH ARDEN CERAMIDE CAPSULES ADVANCED
Packed with ceramides to strengthen the skin’s barrier against external aggressors and collagen to help plump and lift the skin, these capsules are one way to restore moisture and elevate your skin.
IN YOUR 50’S AND BEYOND…
“For many women, the menopause can make them feel as though they have literally “aged overnight”.”
Common skin concerns in your 50’s and beyond include:
Appearance of deeper set fine lines and wrinkles
Dry skin
Loss of elasticity
Menopausal changes
Dr Saira highlights that, “menopausal skin changes commonly appear between 45-55 (although perimenopause may start as early as your mid-thirties). A decline in the oestrogen hormone means skin may not feel as firm and as hydrated as it once was. You may find that you’ll also experience dry, flaky skin, sensitivities, and pigmentation.”
Many women feel as if they have literally “aged overnight”. Skincare needs will change. To lock in moisture, moisturisers should combine humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid), fatty acids, and ceramides. For Black skin, the complexion can feel dry and itchy but also look dull and grey in tone.
In addition to the skincare routine that you have built in 20’s to 40’s, try adding these skincare recommendations:
SHOP SKINCARE FOR YOUR 50'S & BEYOND
AMELIORATE INTENSIVE SKIN THERAPY
A rich moisturiser dedicated to locking essential moisture into your skin.
DCL BALANCING CLEANSER
Moisture starts as early as your cleanser, clean skin without drying it out with a moisturising cleanser packed with humectants to hydrate your skin.
Skincare Tip: Don’t overdo the exfoliation. As we age, the outer layer of our skin becomes thinner and more delicate. So, try to avoid physical exfoliation (scrubs), which can cause micro-tears to the skin and instead use a gentle glycolic toner.
As always, and especially if using products or treatments that contain Retinoids, AHAs or BHAs, apply and top-up your sunscreen daily. See our Ultimate Guide to Sunscreen to find the right SPF for your skin type.
THE ORDINARY GLYCOLIC ACID 7% TONING SOLUTION
REMEMBER,
Regardless of age and concern, the primary bond that ties skincare through the ages is the desire for healthy skin that radiates confidence and comfort. Holistically, the skin should be supported by a healthy lifestyle (including your diet and stress levels) and a tailored and consistent routine.
However, with all things skin-related, nothing beats bespoke advice from a skin professional if anything is in doubt! Find your BSD certified skin care professional today.
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