Chemical Peels for Black Skin
Professional in-clinic chemical peels are extremely popular and one of the most easily accessibly skin treatments. For the most part, they are simple, effective and can treat almost every skin concern imaginable.
But an internet search for chemical peels can also feel intimidating, especially when you have Black or a deeper skin tone. We’ve made it our mission to smooth the way for you and put all the information you would ever need about chemicals on black skin in one place.
What are chemical peels and why do we love them so much?
Chemical peels are treatments which use exfoliating acids such as glycolic acid or Vitamin A (Retinol) to remove excess skin cells and treat a variety of skin conditions like acne or hyperpigmentation. They have been around for a long time, but they’ve come a long way over the decades.
Many brands have some version of an at-home chemical peel. In comparison, professional chemical peels are only available from trained skincare or medical practitioners and are more powerful and can treat a bigger range of concerns. Some chemical peels self neutralise meaning once applied they have an in-built cut off so the skin isn’t damaged. Some peels have to be stopped by the practitioner, otherwise they keep on working.
We love chemical peels because they are so versatile, they form the backbone of most facial treatments and there is one for every skin type and colour, including Black skin.
What you need to know before you book a chemical peel for Black skin
Chemical peels seem daunting because there are few things you need to consider and plan for before booking, especially if you have dark skin.
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Finding the right practitioner is about more than just finding someone who offers chemical peels on the internet. Chemical peels on Black skin need a gentler approach. Word of mouth is a great starting point. Your friend with the amazing skin – what (or who) is their secret? If they’re prepared to tell you, make sure you find out a few things. Ask them what makes them a standout skincare professional and whether they can treat your concerns (remember your friend may have completely different skin to you).
Remember, we have your back and you can also use our Clinic Search too. There is an ever-growing list of practitioners who are confident in treating skin of colour and they each have their own specialisms.
Once you think you’ve found a practitioner who meets your needs, get in touch with them. Don’t be afraid to ask questions about their treatments and how much experience they have working with Black skin. If you’re going for a course of treatments, you’re going to be spending a lot of time (and money!) with them. Make sure you find someone who makes you feel comfortable and confident.
Make sure you understand the treatments they have on offer and what they recommend for your skin colour, type and concerns. Again we have you covered so check out the Chemical Peels Glossary or our Definitive Guide for Chemical Peels on Black Skin.
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The average price of a chemical peel in the UK is between £100-£500 per session depending on the treatment, location and practitioner. Some clinics offer courses of treatments which may work out as less per session so you can get the best value. Remember that it is likely you will need more than one session, a usual treatment course is between 3 and 6 sessions, so factor that into your planning.
The clinic should ask you to come in for a consultation before starting your treatment plan to discuss your goals and any preparation you need to do. Some clinics offer packages where products are included in your plan, but you may also need to pay for products to prepare your skin and for treatment aftercare. Make sure you understand how much these products could be before you book anything. You may also need to buy some products more than once. Your practitioner will be able to give you more information on how long each product should last.
The budget can seem scary, and it can feel like the costs mount up very quickly, but it is important to invest sensibly in your skin. Avoid clinics where the prices seem too good to be true – there is a reason good professional treatments cost what they cost. You’re paying for their knowledge, training, insurance and years of experience.
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Chemical peel treatments can take anything from 15 minutes to 60 minutes to complete and your sessions will be at regular intervals, usually between every 2-6 weeks. To get the best results, it is important to stick as closely as possible to the agreed dates. Delaying a session by a few weeks may not feel like much but it can impact your results. It’s a good idea to book all of your sessions at the beginning of the course to try and avoid clashes.
Next plan your treatment days. Immediately, after any peel, your skin will feel sensitive, so it is important to avoid being outside or in the sun for extended periods. Vitamin A (retinol) peels often need to be removed at home so you may need to plan around this as well.
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So, you’ve found the perfect practitioner, planned your budget and diary, no it’s time to get your skin ready. Depending on the recommended treatment, there may be a preparation period. For Black skin, this is key! Regarding preparation, chemical peels fall into two categories - Today Peels can be performed immediately with no preparation. Tomorrow Peels are chemical peels that need prior skin preparation.
Typically, skin prep takes between 2-6 weeks based on your skin’s condition and the treatment. It will involve a homecare routine which includes the main active ingredients as your chemical peel treatments. For example, if you’ve been recommended Glycolic peels, your preparation will include Glycolic acid but at a lower level to the treatment. This allows your skin to become tolerant, so you get the best results without your skin becoming sensitive. Some brands have specific preparation regimes for their treatments whereas preparation for other treatments is based on a wider range of products.
Black skin will need to prepare for longer than those with lighter skin and may also need to build up the strength of treatments at a slower pace. Chemical peels work by causing controlled injury to the skin allowing the skin’s natural regeneration and healing processes to kick in. On darker skin tones without the correct care and preparation, this can cause darkening of the skin (hyperpigmentation) or lightening of the skin (hypopigmentation) which can both be challenging to resolve. This is why it is important to find a practitioner who is confident and knowledgeable in treating darker skin tones.
What to expect in your treatment
The big day has arrived – your first chemical peel! Your skin is prepped and you’re probably already seeing some improvements. Let’s run through roughly what you can expect from your treatment.
After your practitioner has thoroughly cleansed your skin, they will apply degreaser. This removes excess oil from the skin’s surface which can act as a barrier reducing the impact of the peel. This should just feel cool on the skin, but your skin may also feel slightly tight for a little while.
They will then apply the peel. The application can vary depending on the formulation of the treatment. If it is a liquid peel, your practitioner may use a brush or some rough gauze to apply it and they may apply more than one layer. If it is a cream formulation, they may use gloved hands to apply it evenly.
During application you may feel some warmth or tingling. Your practitioner will keep an eye on your comfort levels. Whatever question they ask you, answer honestly!
If you are removing the peel yourself at home, your treatment is finished. Your practitioner may apply sunscreen over the peel to protect your skin and will give you instructions for removal. You might feel like you have a mask on your face, and you may be able to see the peel or look slightly shiny. Set an alarm so you remember to wash it off. The longer it is left on for, the deeper the peel. Leaving it on for too long may cause damage or sensitivity.
For acid-based peels, your practitioner will remove (also called neutralise) in clinic. Sometimes the neutraliser is sprayed on your skin or applied with cotton gauze. Your practitioner will finish your treatment with some moisturiser and sunscreen. Before you leave, you will be given aftercare instructions.
After your chemical peel
Chemical peel down times vary, depending on the treatment. Your practitioner will explain how long they expect your skin to be in recovery and any aftercare. It is completely normal for your skin to feel dry, tight and rough for up to ten days. You may also experience flaking or peeling which usually lasts for a few days.
It’s important to keep your skin moisturised. Hydrated skin heals faster which puts you in the best position for your next peel session, and means you get the best results. For two days after your treatment, it is best to avoid strenuous exercise, saunas, steam rooms and swimming.
Chemical peels are an effective, simple treatment that treat a wide range of concerns. They are safe for everyone and with some preparation and research you can make sure you get the most out of a course of chemical peels to achieve your skin goals.